The Vibe :
⊹ Antonin Tron’s second Balmain collection draws inspiration from backstage photographs taken in 1954.
⊹ Leopard prints, eel skin and snakeskin-print leather bring a glossy edge to the runway.
⊹ Exposed bras, dangling garters and corsetry make lingerie part of the actual outfit.
⊹ California counterculture inspires the ’70s attitude, sunset colors and mineral-patterned heels.
Balmain Spring 2027 is getting a whole lot sexier under Antonin Tron. For his second collection at the French fashion house, the designer dug into the archives and found inspiration in 1954 backstage photographs by Mark Shaw, where revealing corsets, bare backs and half-dressed models offered a glimpse into Pierre Balmain’s more provocative side. That sense of getting dressed (or undressed) became the starting point for a runway packed with slinky silhouettes, animal prints and a little ’70s California rock-star attitude. The polished Parisian woman is clearly letting her hair down.
Leopard prints and snakeskin patterns slithered across the collection, joined by glossy eel-skin outerwear, viscose and silk lamé that gave the clothes an almost wet appearance. The strong shoulders of Tron’s signature pilot jacket returned, but the silhouettes hugged the body much more closely this season. Garter belts dangled from miniskirts, exposed bras peeked through the styling, and beaded cocktail dresses left very little to the imagination. Even the more tailored Balmain looks carried that slightly disheveled appeal, with sharp jackets playing against lingerie-inspired pieces and low-rise trousers.
The California references went beyond the clothes. Tron worked with a palette of ivory, black, mineral gray, copper and sunset gold, while wedge sandals featured heels resembling agate, jasper and fossilized marble. Draped dresses, embroidered animal motifs and crystal embellishments brought some of the house’s couture heritage into the mix. Staged at Hôtel de Maisons, the former Paris residence of Karl Lagerfeld, the show also featured a simulated desert storm against the windows, with sunglasses adding to the sun-dazed mood. A black cotton sateen outfit with a plunging neckline and raw-edged silk lapel captured the collection’s louche ’70s character particularly well.
Trending Balmain Styles
Brand DNA
Founded in Paris in 1945 by Pierre Balmain, Balmain is known for sharp tailoring, strong shoulders, ornate embellishment, military-inspired details, and high-glamour silhouettes that fuse French couture heritage with a modern edge.
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