Celebrating its 35th anniversary, Undercover‘s Fall 2025 collection revisits the brand’s iconic “But Beautiful” series from 2004, reimagining it with a contemporary lens. Designer Jun Takahashi draws inspiration from the original collection, which was influenced by artist Anne-Valérie Dupond and musician Patti Smith, to create a line that brings together artisanal craftsmanship with a punk aesthetic. The collection features unstructured tailoring, patchworked dresses, and raw hems, embodying a harmonious fusion of elegance and rebellion.
The runway presentation showcased pajama-inspired suits, asymmetric cardigans, and deconstructed denim. Jun Takahashi’s attention to detail is evident in the intricate embellishments, such as showers of buttons adorning birdlike skirt-suits and hand-stitched shoes crafted in collaboration with Dupond. This collection not only pays homage to Undercover‘s past but also reaffirms its relevance in today’s fashion landscape. By merging historical references with modern design sensibilities, Takahashi offers a fresh perspective that resonates with both longtime admirers and new audiences.
