The Vibe :
⊹ Anna Sui calls Spring 2027 “Wonderment.”
⊹ Sheer lingerie dressing meets denim, crochet, satin and iridescent fabrics.
⊹ Howard Gardiner Cushing’s fantasy paintings sparked the collection’s fairy-tale mood.
⊹ Mother-of-pearl jewelry, rhinestone jeans and boudoir-ish slippers keep the styling playful.
Anna Sui Spring 2027 started with a blurry detail in an old issue of Vogue and ended somewhere between a fairy tale, a lingerie drawer and a very good vintage shop. While researching a 1970s hairstyle, Sui discovered Howard Gardiner Cushing’s fantasy paintings at The Ledges in Newport, then followed the trail into Art Nouveau, water lilies, storybook imagery and mother-of-pearl. The references come through in mauve, lavender, old rose, cream and denim blue spread across lace, crochet, point d’esprit and satin.
The clothes stay light even when the styling piles up. Sheer mesh floats over fluorescent lingerie, an iridescent T-shirt meets satin-striped plaid and chartreuse crushed velvet, and appliquéd denim roughs up the prettier pieces. Anna Sui also leans hard into slips and camis, layering an Empire dress over printed mesh and rhinestone-studded jeans. Engineered embroidery, sequins and print appear alongside hand crochet and hand-dyed flowers, letting newer textile techniques sit comfortably beside old-school workmanship.
The accessories are just as dreamy. Erickson Beamon turns Cushing’s glowing paintings into mother-of-pearl, abalone and shell jewelry, while John Fluevog uses vintage textiles and fur trim for boudoir-ish slippers. Scarlett White also appears in a Swarovski-covered reprise of a tiny dress Kate Moss wore in the ’90s. Set against the dark wood and stained glass of the National Arts Club, all those sheer layers, rhinestones and iridescent surfaces look less like storybook costumes and more like party clothes that wandered into the wrong drawing room.
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Brand DNA
Founded in New York in 1981 by Anna Sui, the label mixes rock ’n’ roll, vintage romance, and eclectic print with a distinctly downtown spirit. Babydoll dresses, rich pattern, lace, and bohemian references define its unmistakable world.
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