The Vibe :
⊹ “Swedish Summer” marks the LVMH Prize finalist’s first London runway show.
⊹ Hand-stitched pleats switch between images of proper tailoring, lace and lingerie.
⊹ A permanently open trench reveals floral-embroidered leather beneath its outer shell.
⊹ The label’s first bag, developed with Eden Tan, carries its double-front construction into accessories.
A dress that appears to be a tweed skirt suit, then flashes an image of lingerie when its wearer moves? Petra Fagerström has a very particular take on ladylike dressing. For Spring 2027, the LVMH Prize finalist made her London runway debut with “Swedish Summer,” a collection that lets propriety and provocation occupy the same garment. References to 1940s and ’50s couture establish the familiar shapes, but their materials and shifting surfaces keep those first impressions from sticking.
A Bar jacket-inspired silhouette arrives in fitted leather, giving its formal proportions a tougher finish. A parka stays close to the body at the front before ballooning at the back. Then there is the trench, designed to remain open and expose a floral-embroidered leather layer underneath. Its unusual construction began with a mistake in an AI-generated image, which Fagerström translated into an actual garment. That digital error becomes a reason to reconsider how a coat is assembled.
The dresses take the optical tricks further through lenticular pleating: digitally drawn and printed images divided into hundreds of folds, each stitched by hand. As the angle changes, a tweed-suit illusion gives way to lace and lingerie; another design shifts between underwear imagery and scenery from nature. The technique makes movement part of getting dressed, with no single view telling the whole story. Fagerström also introduces her first bag, developed with London designer Eden Tan, translating the label’s double-front construction into leather goods.
Trending Petra Fagerstrom Styles
Brand DNA
Founded by Swedish designer Petra Fagerström, the London-based label is known for lenticular pleating that shifts with movement. Optical effects, warped proportions, technical fabrics, and sharp femininity give the collections their futuristic edge.
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